Friday, March 11, 2011

Pacific neighbours


Its been a long time since I visited this wonderful country... I have strong memories of an amazing trip in 1988 when I was lucky to stay with my friend Hisae who'd been an exchange student from Hokkaido in my final year of high school. Todays news took my thoughts back to her family and places we visited.


Massive quake unleashes tsunami on Japan
Skyline of Tokyo

Major 7.3 offshore quake jolts Japan
photo illustration of seismic chart


Thoughts turn to Japan ... hoping people everywhere are finding their way to safety! The tsunami warning that was sent out across the pacific has been updated here in Australia with the Bureau of Meteorology saying the threat to Australia and New Zealand has been downgraded with little impact expected. 


I wrote this post this afternoon an hour or so after the earthquake struck and the following Tsunami. Now its midnight here and I'm watching the news broadcasts and noting that the Phillipines seems to have come through OK and eastern parts of Indonesia describe a small tsunami with no reports of damage.


Reports from Japan grow more sobering all the time... fires in Oil refineries, Nuclear fears, missing people and the rising toll. Warnings persist for Hawaii and other parts of the pacific and west coast of northern America. 



Our little globe is taking a huge battering of late ... we can only hope the rest of the year is quieter! Thoughts go to all who, in whatever way, are affected by this tragic news.




I thought I'd share these altogether different stories from Japan below that caught my attention whilst reading the Japan Times online ...the first one titled Trends in Japan 2010: yama boom.
This is a country which brings trends to light in a very big way (many of you probably know this better than I)... especially trends for young people.




Trends in Japan 2010: yama boom

December 20th, 2010 by Felicity Hughes
The phrases “yama girl” and “power spot” both appeared in Jiyu Kokuminsha’s list of the year’s popular Japanese expressions, reflecting the fact that during 2010 Japan’s hills were alive with hordes of young female hikers. These women, attracted by the promise of powering up on spiritual energy, while sporting fashionable threads, were dubbed yama gaaru (mountain girls) by the media and have fueled what’s been called the yama boom.


Yama girls united
Add caption

Companies have been quick to cash in on the trend. Alpine-wear makers have  rolled out new lines with the stylin’ hiker in mind. Hotel Nikko in Nara is unveiled a yama girl plan, offering a discount for female hiking groups. Yama girls also have their very own magazine called Randonnée, which features articles on mountain fashion as well as the more practical aspects of hiking.
When they hit the countryside trails mountain girls wear sensible footwear and bright leggings coupled with cute short skirts. Some like this look so much that they wear it out in Tokyo’s concrete jungle.
Some  alpinists have said, however, that the city streets is where novice hikers should stay. The veterans’ warnings about the volatile weather conditions of Japan’s rugged mountains were proven right a couple of months ago when a group of young hikers got stuck on Mount Sawaguchi  in Kawanehoncho, Shizuoka Prefecture. According toSankei News, the group of two women and three men were on a yamakon (mountain climbing group blind date), when a sudden change in the weather made them lose their way. Having no map nor compass, they were unable to find their way back to the relatively easy hiking course. Fortuntately, they were rescued two days after they went missing.
If only they had had Mapion’s new cell-phone 3D maps, which went on the market on Oct. 27, just a couple of days before they set off on their hike. The CG-illustrated maps, made to appeal to a younger generation of climbers, are reported to be visually stunning and give the user an easy-to-navigate view of the terrain.
Beautiful scenery is not the only pull of mountain climbing. Another attraction is the power spot, places that are purported to posses large amounts of spiritual energy. Earlier this year we wrote about the increasing growth of this trend and the publishing boom in books about power spots.
According to an article published yesterday in the Yomiuri Online, the power-spot trend shows no sign of abating and large numbers of young visitors continue to visit famous sites in search of enlightenment. While it’s now getting a bit too cold to hike up Japan’s mountains to gather spiritual energy, other urban power spots, such as Meiji Shrine, are still enjoying healthy numbers of visitors.

This  article got me thinking. Young Japanese girls I met in Melbourne in the 90's who were spending 6 months traveling and working in Australia were all seriously searching for something outside the expectations of their families and tradition. I met numbers of travellers when they came to visit someone staying at my place ...and there was a very restless spirit in those I conversed with. Its always interesting to consider what exists under the surface of trends and so-called fads ...in this light I found the Yama-girls most curious.
What a long and fascinating history this country has had - evolving at an extraordinary rate since 1945!

Another article I thought I'd share that reflects on the food culture past and present:




Vegetable boom growing steadily

February 8th, 2011 by Felicity Hughes
Despite the hallowed status of vegetables in traditional Buddhist cuisine and the healthy reputation of the Japanese diet, let’s face it: The majority of restaurants in postwar Japan are about pleasing carnivores, and most often the main-course options are limited to animal proteins. In recent years, though, vegetable-centric cuisine — not to be confused with strictly vegetarian fare — has been gaining popularity, with the number of restaurants focused on fresh produce growing steadily.
Don’t expect the waiters to be wearing Birkenstock sandals at these new style veggie restaurants, and the soup stock won’t necessarily be fish-free. The vegetables and their provenance do, however, take center-stage. This is literally the case at Nouka no Daidokoro (Farmer’s Kitchen), which just recently opened its fourth restaurant in Tokyo. At the Ebisu location, patrons enter through a fully stocked produce locker (which doubles as a veggie store), and a vegetable hothouse and veggie buffet are the restaurant’s centerpieces. On the walls, large posters sing the praises of the star farmers of Japan and at the register, the shelves are filled with condiments and snacks made from local goodness.
Yasaiya Mei, now with six locations, is slightly more up-scale but places the same emphasis on domestically grown vegetables. Quiz the staff on a particular vegetable, and there’s a good chance that they’ll not only impress you with their in-depth knowledge, but that they’ve actually been to the farm where it was grown.
Late last month, a new face arrived on the yasai scene: Vegetable Sushi Potager, which features nigiri-zushi topped with ingredients such as shitake, carrots, radishes and cauliflower. Aya Kakisawa, the chef and owner of Vegetable Sushi Potager, has searched not only domestically but also globally for ingredients that would work well on a bed of sticky rice.
Kakisawa also owns the extremely popular Pattiserie Potager in Nakameguro, which sells “vegetable sweets” such as carrot and chocolate flans; edamame cheese cakes; and purple sweet potato Valentine’s chocolates. She’s obviously on to a good thing. We chanced by Pattiserie Potager on a Sunday last month and the queues were out the door.
Despite the good times, industry website Tokyo Food News Online has sounded a note of caution to budding restauranteurs: There are plenty of vegetable cuisine restaurants that have gone under over the past few years, so it’s important to get the formula right. The Japanese are extremely partial to a nice bit of meat, so drawing the focus away from carnivorous delights has to be done well.
One shop that has been thriving is the Chofu-based Misatoya. The shop also doubles as a grocer selling organic vegetables to a loyal clientele. It’s this model that Tokyo Food News think might be the key to success, just as fishmonger’s have successfully started up izakaya (drinking establishements) on the premises in recent years, grocers might think to expand their business by setting up a restaurant in store.
Would a delicious slice of pumpkin satisfy as the main attraction to your meal or do you think nothing can replace a good steak? Are you up for trying out vegetable sushi or sweets?
(Nouka no Daidokoro photos by Mio Yamada)

This article below is precious ... had to post it too! There are many ways in which to experience and understand the particulars of a culture. These are certainly evocative even if somewhat unusual!




Unusual souvenirs deliver Japan in a can

Monday, January 17th, 2011
Browsing the shelves of Tokyu Hands the other day, a member of the Japan Pulse team came upon a display of weird and wonderful sweeties. Among the items on sale were various cans of bizarrely flavored sweets including: katsudon (deep fried pork cutlet) drops from Aisu and yaki udon (fried noodle) dropsfrom Kakura. After marveling at these canned items, a story in Nikkei Trendy caught our attention: From May this year, visitors to the volcanic island of Sakurajima will be able to buy cans of volcanic ash to commemorate their visit. Once we’d read that, we had to satisfy our craving for more weird and wonderful canned goods being sold as souvenirs in Japan. Here’s our roundup of what we found:

Katsudon drops with extra "source"
Aroma! Osaka: These three cans each contain aromas that are designed to conjure up the atmosphere of the city. Each can is meant to contain a smell that sums up a particular area of the city. The smell of thick stage makeup in one can is supposed to conjure up an image of Dotonbori’s theatrical past. In another can, the smell of the sea is meant to make you think of kimono-wearing mama-sans from the Kitashinchi entertainment district. The aroma of Tenpouzan, Osaka’s harbor village, is billed as a “scent of memories” — that first date on a Ferris wheel. Ahhh. Surprisingly, there’s no takoyaki (fried octopus ball) scent.
Akihabara canned oden: Oden, a soup which contains thick chunks of radish, eggs and other delights, wasput into cans by Chichibu Denki and went on sale on the streets of Akihabara from vending machines back in the ‘90s. The product has been hugely popular with the town’s geeks who consume the stew while waiting in line to purchase limited-edition goods. If you’d like to try Akihabara canned oden, you can buy a can on Flutterscape.
Canned pearls: These cans contain shellfish that you are supposed to prize open to extract a pearl hidden inside. The color of the “freshwater pearl” you end up with will signify luck in a particular area of your life: a pink pearl indicates you’ll be lucky in love; white guarantees good health;  cream is for all-round good fortune; purple is for study and black bodes well for your finances. While this is not necessarily a souvenir, it can be bought at souvenir stores in seaside tourist destinations such as Matsushima.
Canned drops: These canned sweeties come in “traditional” flavors, yet not exactly the sorts of flavors you’d normally associate with candy. Each flavor is linked to a region. For Fukuoka, there’s Motsu Nabe, which captures the taste of the region’s famous offal hotpot. Yum! Others taste treats on offer include Kyoto Tsukemono (pickled vegetables), Mojiko Yaki Curry (fried curry) and Ooita Yuzu Kosyo (yuzu pepper). (Here’s a photo gallery of a few.) As mentioned, you can currently find these on the first floor of Tokyu Hands Shibuya, and online at JBox.
Hai! Douzo: What’s the perfect souvenir to bring back from a volcanic island? Canned volcanic ash, of course. The name of Sakurajima’s Hai! Douzo plays on the double meaning of “hai,” which can mean both “yes” and “ash.” We reckon that those buying the can of ash will probably be purchasing it more for the joke than for its contents. Hai! Douzo is scheduled to go on sale from May this year.

You can read more at this Japanese Times blog Japan- Pulse here.

Im sure you'll all join me in sending heart-ful wishes to these Pacific neighbours and any in the surrounding region at risk tonight!


Monday, March 7, 2011

blog love...


Come along for a quick skip around some favourite blogs! But first... I was just reflecting...

Anyone who's visited here before will know its my great pleasure to be inspired in this world by things art-related... but that my inspiration doesn't stop there. Oh no! IMPOSSIBLE!
Its a bit of a story ... less than 3 years ago I bought a Mac... before that I really didn't get the fuss about computers and spent all my time in my studio painting when not working at a day job and being part of the world!
During the relocation to a new city 3 years ago I was laid up with  medical complications that stopped me working flat out for a major length of time (fabulous really!) yet weren't so awful as to stop me having a chance to reinvent my interest in things literary /artistic /philosophical and get to know my Mac!

Well... I got started with this blog...and I had no idea really how it really should take shape. I felt a little shy putting my work up so I gathered that you could post on whatever inspiration you might find ...so I did. From the first that meant serious or whimsical... anywhere on the spectrum was possible... and why not!

Only later did I realise that for many bloggers there was a distinct and definite space being occupied ... unswerving in continuity, content and approach. Mmmm I thought.... is that what I should be doing?

Then I thought of my musical interest in;
polyphony |pəˈlifənē|noun ( pl. -nies) Musicthe style of simultaneously combining a number of parts, each forming an individual melody and harmonizing with each other.• a composition written, played, or sung in this style.• (on an electronic keyboard or synthesizer) the number of notes or voices that can be played simultaneously without loss.ORIGIN early 19th cent.: from Greek poluphōnia, from polu- ‘many’ phōnē ‘sound.’

and also;

contrapuntal |ˌkäntrəˈpəntl|adjective Musicof or in counterpoint.• (of a piece of music) with two or more independent melodic lines.ORIGIN mid 19th cent.: from Italian contrapunto (see counterpoint ) + -al .


... and a gravitation of mine to multiple layering of co-exisiting elements;

multiplicitynounthe multiplicity of species abundance, scores, mass, host, array, variety; range, diversity,heterogeneity, plurality, profusion; informal loads, stacks, heaps, masses, tons; literary myriad.

All these ideas I'd spent the previous 7 years painting in one form or another... Blogging then new (to me) offered a very exciting scaffold for these various ideas and interests... and so this blog became a house with many rooms... a thinking space .. a conversation hub ...a testing ground ... i needed it not to be prescriptive... i had some exploring to do... and this was the place!

In time I created a studio blog to think exclusively about my own work undistracted ... then I ended up with the homage blog a year ago to document the residency project (see navigation: blog top right) and that also extended way beyond strict boundaries of thinking... yet on reflection remained very focused and entirely useful for deepening understanding of the entire world of seeds and biodiversity. It was important that there was room for others in that process... information came from many sources and layers... and was critically useful.

Halfway along last year I scrabbled together a website ... serving a particular aim adequately ... this January, during the Qld floods, I started tumblr blogging which was such a different process and quite good in a whole new way for thinking about/collecting art and ideas... The came twitter which... surprise surprise...is excellent for tracking news on my continuing seeds and biodiversity project...and other stuff!

For the computer dud of 3 years ago it been quite a journey and the time was ripe for it... I still have shocking gaps in computer know-how and waver around thinking about content and direction of these web-vehicles ... but the thing is it has brought the world to me and taken me a little more out into a bigger sense of world...

Often i think ... OK here's a great find... and intend to post links to what I  come across... so forgive me for this. I will just share just a few blogs from the huge list of ones I love to visit...an eclectic range prized for hugely different reasons .. and can I apologise to some lovely bloggers in case they read this... I have some new entries to do on my blog roll...long overdue...so if you're a new follower or blogger... good to have you pop in indeed!


first on the tour... from Melbourne... or is it the country Lucy?


click on puttering along from Nourish me


click on rose salt - rose sugar at nourish me


rose salt
Lucy at Nourish me writes:
Rose salt

Though inordinately proud that for once I have a finished picture of a recipe to share, I'm not convinced that this salt is as good as Silvena Rowe's beautiful Purple Citrus & Sweet Perfume suggests. Good with fish, she says, but I wouldn't go out of my way to make it again. The fragrance improves after a week; prior to that, it has a grassy, earthy smell, one not entirely unpleasant, but not exactly inspiring either. Still blogworthy for its edible use of roses.

Gently pull the petals from 1 large, unsprayed red rose. Wash and dry the petals with care. Using fingers, rub the petals with 2 tblsp of sea salt crystals, keeping things a little chunky. Store in a lidded jar and allow a few days for the flavours to get to know one another. Keeps for at least a couple of weeks at (cool-ish) room temperature.
Best added to dishes at the table.


Dont you love those images above? Thanks Lucy ... whose words are as delicious as her pics! Do take a visit to Nourish me...Lucy has a passion for the garden to table experience which was well nurtured by living in Melbourne for me... to visit Lucy takes me back to my old Studley Park rambling 1928 house and garden rented paradise ... she remindsme of some of the best things about that former time... Big Thanks Lucy!

Skipping continents now! From southern Australia to L.A.  ...and Singapore too actually


corner view


Some of you may have seen my rather quirky post stolen from the NY Times 2 posts back - wackadoo, cheffy bravado"... I came across it just after visiting Passage Paradise: Corner View - My Kitchen Counter and I really thought this reviewer was chanelling my friend over there in LA! Quirky, lovely and a most encouraging blogger many of us have gladly met out there in the sphere! She regularly takes me/us visiting (via her blog) the backstreets of her city, country... and others and can recommend where to eat the best kim-chi or eclairs any old where!I picked this recipe from her blog and the wonderful photo below! Mlle Paradis is an appreciator as well as a creative... in this world of driven creatives it is easy to forget to tell another what we like about their work... we choke sometimes on those important compliments... hold back. Generosity is not a given .... so this Mlle gets my thanks for the smart and witty joy and care she spreads around liberally to all! And can she write a seriously gutsy epistle too!
Big Thanks Mlle Paradis!

 Recipe: Cheaters' Spaghetti
            Take one small enamel pot.  Fill with water and boil.  At boiling point add enough spaghetti for person. (They usually say take a bundle about the diameter of a quarter.)  Break it in half as you desire.

            Let boil till the pasta approaches "al dente".  While it's cooking get out a scant handful of dried mushrooms, rinse and then soak them.  (You could also pop them in the microwave with their soaking h2o very briefly to get them softened.)  Set the mushrooms aside.
             Pour most of the pasta water off, leaving barely enough to cover.  Generously drizzle over a stream of extra virgin olive oil, add a sprinkling of red pepper flakes and grind over some salt and pepper.  Stir in.  Let cook a 1/2 minute to a minute or so over low heat.
             Add leftover canned crushed tomatoes approximating about 1/3 c. (or twice as much volume fresh plum tomatoes if you have some) mixed down with an equal measure of dry vermouth.  Add a generous pinch of dry basil.  Continue cooking.
              Stir in the mushrooms and let cook till soft.  Dig out the truffle oil from the back of your cupboard.  Shave in some nice aged  parmesan cheese to your taste.  Drizzle in a soupcon of truffle oil.  Salt.  Pepper.  Stir.
             Take it to a comfortable seating area and write a blog post!
Three words:  SIMPLE.  QUICK.  YUMMY!!!!  And GREEN!  (It's a one pot dish.)    Buon Appetito!




click here to read All Singapore, All week. EATING from Mlle Paradis

On my mind for sometime to post on has been the gorgeous Ms Mary Zeran of Northern US - Iowa in fact. She slipped into my world last year when I was ridiculously busy... suddenly here was this delightfully warm person leaving comments that made me purr! Mary has been posting on dream studios of late - have a look at this one here.... and on another topic altogether quite hilariously but cleverly at this post:

WEDNESDAY, MARCH 2, 2011

           Candide, Syphilis, Tuberculosis and the Family Dinner table.

Calamaties
acrylic paint, acrylic medium,
vellum, masonite, and fir
12"x12"x2"
30.48 cm x 30.48 cm x 5.08 cm
Mary Zeran 2011


You really must pop over and read that post... its precious... but also thought-provoking! At her other Blog Discovering the world of Art she focuses mainly on the art from her region... the State of Iowa... which for those of us from other parts of the globe is excellent for getting a sense of what happens outside centres like NY, LA etc. Have a look at her post on mixed media/installation artist Joan Webster-Vore here. I was extremely honoured to have Mary include me on this blog as an honorary Iowan in early December. I can only apologise for being so worn out at the time and unable to out this post together then to say thank you! Big Thanks Mary!
Im going to post a studio pic for mary for her blog....





Roald Dahl's writing shed ... and inside Gypsy house...





For some reason my linking facility has just starting mucking up.... cant seem to link you to the great place where I found these 2 images... www.re-nest.com and the post title famous writer's small writing sheds and off-the-grid huts... included Virginia Woolf and Dylan Thomas... Bernard Shaw... jolly annoying my friends! Anyway Mary... they were for your blog post some time!

See if that works... ???

Oh...I did have a few more mentions... I'll have to write part 2 and part 3 I think... so I'll finish with a visit to Germany to Ralf Bohnenkamp who is a wonderful painter who allows us glimpses into his daily studio progress and is most charming to boot!





Ralf is found at r-bohnenkamp.blogspot.com and these excellent studio photos are from a post dated 2011/02 Im-studio. The sensibility of Ralf's work is very particular to his location ...  Artists the world over work along similar lines and with similar materials...and on one level it is hard to distinguish where people are from ... but blogs leave tell-tale signs that websites often do not... and there is the pleasure of different languages... Sometimes Ralf has a small laugh at some words I might use and this makes me smile and wonder...what could it mean to him in German...Oh well... he is always charming! And his site has been most enjoyable to visit over this past year! Thank you Ralf!

I very much enjoy these excursions to places near and far ... travel is not always possible and to blog is to
have a taste of that experience of life beyond. Ill be back for follow up posts to this...
may your week be most productive and enjoyable all!
Sophie x



Thursday, March 3, 2011

when we move in who moves out?

.... inspiration comes from many directions for artists.... visit homage to the seed blog to read about a local Brisbane-based artist who has been exploring biodiversity on canvas.


the artist's bush retreat!

As for the post title... a visit to the other blog will reveal more!
cheers!
S

"Wackadoo, cheffy bravado!" ...nothing like a good old New York restaurant review!


Fishtag
End of a long, hot day... dinner out with friends and LOTS of good 
conversation! Just came across this restaurant review, which, if 
you ever read such things can leave you wishing you hadn't 
... a  good reviewer however can leave you almost feeling like 
you're there... even if the place in question serves a kind of 
"wackadoo, cheffy bravado"... and is a somewhat dubious destination!
I might not be able to manage the trip to NY at the moment...but I
did get a laugh or two reading this!
I rather wonder what this writer would make of the local scene 
in Brisbane... lets just say ... Im glad I'm not in this business!

the lamb burger
March 1, 2011

Fishtag




WHAT a strange and frustrating if occasionally marvelous restaurant is Fishtag, Michael Psilakis’s new venture on West 79th Street, across the street from the Dublin House.
A neighborhood joint with aspirations that are somewhat higher than that, the restaurant marries solid Mediterranean cooking to a kind of wackadoo, cheffy bravado that brings sea urchin to the table floating in a glass of brackish seawater as if it were art. (It is not. It is kind of nasty.) Fishtag is a good restaurant trapped inside a bad one.
Mr. Psilakis, the executive chef and an owner, and his chef de cuisine, Ryan Skeen, grill striped bass with the best in this city, and adorn the fish simply, with lemon, over broccoli rabe. This is great. More, please.
They serve a marvelous lamb burger, with whipped feta, chilies and smashed potatoes that you may find yourself thinking about days later. The dish costs $16. If it were available in your neighborhood, you would know the name of the restaurant’s hostess, the bartender and your favorite waiter within a month.
The pair also prepares some of the city’s greatest toast: grilled to smokiness, its crust giving way to a luscious interior. They serve it with a selection of many estimable cheeses, cured meats and fishes, and have a fine list of bracing whites and dry reds to drink along with them. (The bar up front, which runs a long way into the space, is a good place to graze these.)
But often Fishtag recalls what happens when children get into Mom’s closet and play at fashion. The food shows up in the dining room overdressed and shrieking in three shades of lipstick and mismatched slingbacks, with flavors that clash or do something rather worse than that.
This may be cute for children. Here it leaves you stuck eating a bowl of the pasta twists known as trofie, which are mixed into a thick tomato sauce flecked with chewy cuttlefish and strings of short-rib meat. Gooey smoked mozzarella and an overlay of ricotta salata are on top. Oh, honey.
More bad news: The menus are odd, with a format that moves from light food to heavy and with appetizers printed in red and entrees in black. There is a separate sheet for the cheeses, cured meats and fish. These are all difficult to navigate.
The dining room, meanwhile, is crowded, narrow and rec-room noisy, with oppressively low ceilings and a soundtrack that runs to stalwarts of the FM radio dial, circa 1980. (“Wait, is that — Boston?”)
Fishtag has none of the Aegean cheeriness that could be found when Mr. Psilakis had Onera in this space, four years ago, and none of the purity of cooking, either. Gone, too, are the diner trappings Mr. Psilakis put in when he opened Gus & Gabriel Gastropub here in 2009. That, for the record, is very much to the good. The servers jostle about and seem to suffer the ill effects of claustrophobia: they can be skittish; they seem to stoop.
And everywhere the food piles high, often under parsley and pomegranate seeds, beneath rounds of radish, many dishes indistinguishable from the last.
A bruschetta of bland tuna confit with bland baked ricotta, for instance, showered in too much garlic and roughly the size of a strip steak, might easily be interchanged with a similar dish served with whipped salt cod and smoked eggplant; they could stand in the same police lineup and confuse an eyewitness. Their tastes run together. On the table, they become one big pile of Greekish salad.
Grilled sardines are fine. (Some compliment!) A salad of chopped chicory, wild arugula and bulgur comes with a shopping list for a yoga weekend in Taos: Medjool dates, pomegranate seeds, green olives, breakfast radish, pistachio, peppers, grilled onions and smoked almonds. Enough!
Not all the experiments are failures. For an excellent bruschetta, order the one with grilled prawns, feta and fiery chilies. It could make a daily lunch without tempting boredom. Mussels, meanwhile, are served in a huge bowl with spicy merguez, in a broth heavy with shredded lamb. The combination — with pickled leeks and confitted chickpeas mixed in, to boot — is weird and exciting and new. It is a similar play to the one with cuttlefish and short rib, though with a far better ending. Get some bread with that and mop and mop and mop.
Also estimable is a dish of smoked octopus with chorizo and a smoky potato purée, accompanied by pickled mushrooms and lemon. The flavors are intense and focused, with no muddiness between them.
What, however, is the purpose of a grilled branzino stuffed with headcheese, except to tempt food loons eager to experience something different? (The dish might serve as a prime example of the term “critic bait.”) There is an excellent accompaniment of greens braised with guanciale, but the fish itself was overcooked, with an interior that proved of sticky interest only to those predisposed to believe a fish stuffed with headcheese is a good idea. This may well be true, but Fishtag’s version does not satisfy the court. Explanation denied.
The restaurant’s burger deserves much praise, though. Mr. Skeen has drawn accolades throughout his young career (at Resto, at Irving Mill and briefly at 5 & Diamond, among others) for his prowess with ground meats. Nothing at Fishtag dims the justification for that praise. The lamb burger at Fishtag is as fat as a squashed softball, with a monkish simplicity to its preparation. It is served beneath a tonsure of whipped feta and leaks beautifully into its bun. It tastes fantastic.
You can eat this sandwich, after a bruschetta or two, then bang down some excellent Ethiopian French-press coffee to end your meal. (Neither Mr. Skeen nor Mr. Psilakis seem much interested in sweets, so there is but a mean little list of sorbets and ice creams for dessert.) You can have cheese and a punchy red wine and consider the place a wine bar.
But either way you’ll be left sitting in a basement on West 79th Street listening to classic rock and feeling disappointed. There is too much at Fishtag that is too much, and too little to offer compensation for that fact. Mr. Psilakis has shown us — first at Onera, more recently at his Kefi, on Columbus Avenue — that he can do better. Here he should start by doing less.
Fishtag
FAIR
222 West 79th Street (Broadway), Upper West Side; (212) 362-7470, fishtagrestaurant.com.
ATMOSPHERE Subterranean almost-there blues.
SOUND LEVEL Loud-conversational, a little clattery.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Grilled prawn bruschetta, smoked octopus, lamb burger, grilled striped bass, mussels and spicy lamb.
WINE LIST Small but wide ranging. All bottles are available by the glass and in half bottles as well. Good beer selection.
PRICE RANGE Appetizers, $9 to $14; entrees, $16 to $26.
HOURS Sunday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday to 11 p.m. Weekend brunch noon to 3 p.m.